best security camera layout image
06Si
I am having a brand new house built, in the next couple of weeks it will be at the point where I need to install my own ethernet and security cameras before drywall goes up as the builders do not do this themselves. If anyone has any tips of how to online it will be much appreciated. I want ethernet in every room and 4 cameras out doors.
Answer
First off, plan. Walk the layout carefully and a paper map that you can mark up may be helpful as well. You can make a photocopy of a floor plan or hand draw this, it doesn't need to be exact, but you need a really good idea of where you are putting things.
Before you do anything else plan where your router will go. This is the most important thing to plan for because once the dry wall is up you will not be able to change your mind on it. Make sure to plan for any kind of ISP you may choose to have in the future, so both cable and telephone will need to be wired into this room where the router will be. That way if you decide to change ISP's they can install the modem in that same room. Trust me, nothing is worse than having your Ethernet wiring job perfect only to find out that it is then useless because you can't put the modem in the room designed for the router.
Make sure when you layout where the cables will go that they will be protected. None should be exposed to extreme heat or cold and you especially want to make sure they will not be accessible to small animals that may get under the house or into the attic. Small critters love to chew cables, they will destroy your Ethernet very fast and all will be for naught.
Install your patch panel. All of your Ethernet cables will need to run to a patch panel if you want this to look clean. I do not recommend putting the panel built into the wall, instead plan to have it in a place where you can quickly remove it from the wall so you can re-punch any runs that need it in the future.
Run the cables. Run each cable then from the patch panel to their destination making sure to leave slack at both ends, usually between 6 to 9 inches of slack on each end is plenty to then work with it. Do not punch down anything yet. Make sure when running the cable that it is out of the way of where the drywall will be installed and that you do not kink or crimp anywhere, especially around corners. A rule of thumb is that the Ethernet cable should never bend more than if you were to wrap it around your hand. That is about the tightest corner you want to make it do safely.
Attach the Ethernet cable up and out of the way using a staple gun with special wiring staples (they are wider and rounded so they don't kink the cable but you still need to be cautious when putting them in, don't puncture the cable at all) or you can use some nails hammered in on each side of the cable and bent over to hold them in place. the second method is safer but more time consuming.
When planning and running the cables run at least 1 spare to each outlet. This will help you out later if you make a mistake or need to replace one cable. You may also want to run a fish line, no not fishing line, a fish line. It can really be just about any durable string you can use to pull a cable through the wall after the drywall is in place in case you need to replace one cable.
Make sure to mark each cable on both ends. Come up with a system that works for you, I usually just number them then mark those numbers on my map. Some people designate the room the cable goes to a letter and the outlet gets a number then the port on that outlet gets a number as well so those look like: A-3-1 (just an example). By marking them all on both ends you can trace each wire out when you are ready to punch them down and know which port goes where.
Once they are all run, you have slack, you are positive they are out of the way for the dry wall to go up, just wait for the house to be finished. When it is done punch down your cables at the patch panel, punch down your ports for each outlet (don't put ports on the spare cables just leave them in the wall just for emergencies). Put your face plates up then you will need your modem plugged into your router, your router will need to plug into a switch (because you will probably need a lot more ports than a router will give you) then the switch will need to connect to your patch panel.
Once that is all connected and ready to go you will need to go around and test your ports. You may want an Ethernet tester for this to verify you have the correct pin out. I would recommend doing a search online for the pin out config.
For the security camera's I would recommend using WiFi capable cameras for outside and Ethernet connected ones for inside. Or go WiFi with all of them. Just make sure you have an electrician install a weatherproof/tamper-proof power outlet near where you want them and you are good.
First off, plan. Walk the layout carefully and a paper map that you can mark up may be helpful as well. You can make a photocopy of a floor plan or hand draw this, it doesn't need to be exact, but you need a really good idea of where you are putting things.
Before you do anything else plan where your router will go. This is the most important thing to plan for because once the dry wall is up you will not be able to change your mind on it. Make sure to plan for any kind of ISP you may choose to have in the future, so both cable and telephone will need to be wired into this room where the router will be. That way if you decide to change ISP's they can install the modem in that same room. Trust me, nothing is worse than having your Ethernet wiring job perfect only to find out that it is then useless because you can't put the modem in the room designed for the router.
Make sure when you layout where the cables will go that they will be protected. None should be exposed to extreme heat or cold and you especially want to make sure they will not be accessible to small animals that may get under the house or into the attic. Small critters love to chew cables, they will destroy your Ethernet very fast and all will be for naught.
Install your patch panel. All of your Ethernet cables will need to run to a patch panel if you want this to look clean. I do not recommend putting the panel built into the wall, instead plan to have it in a place where you can quickly remove it from the wall so you can re-punch any runs that need it in the future.
Run the cables. Run each cable then from the patch panel to their destination making sure to leave slack at both ends, usually between 6 to 9 inches of slack on each end is plenty to then work with it. Do not punch down anything yet. Make sure when running the cable that it is out of the way of where the drywall will be installed and that you do not kink or crimp anywhere, especially around corners. A rule of thumb is that the Ethernet cable should never bend more than if you were to wrap it around your hand. That is about the tightest corner you want to make it do safely.
Attach the Ethernet cable up and out of the way using a staple gun with special wiring staples (they are wider and rounded so they don't kink the cable but you still need to be cautious when putting them in, don't puncture the cable at all) or you can use some nails hammered in on each side of the cable and bent over to hold them in place. the second method is safer but more time consuming.
When planning and running the cables run at least 1 spare to each outlet. This will help you out later if you make a mistake or need to replace one cable. You may also want to run a fish line, no not fishing line, a fish line. It can really be just about any durable string you can use to pull a cable through the wall after the drywall is in place in case you need to replace one cable.
Make sure to mark each cable on both ends. Come up with a system that works for you, I usually just number them then mark those numbers on my map. Some people designate the room the cable goes to a letter and the outlet gets a number then the port on that outlet gets a number as well so those look like: A-3-1 (just an example). By marking them all on both ends you can trace each wire out when you are ready to punch them down and know which port goes where.
Once they are all run, you have slack, you are positive they are out of the way for the dry wall to go up, just wait for the house to be finished. When it is done punch down your cables at the patch panel, punch down your ports for each outlet (don't put ports on the spare cables just leave them in the wall just for emergencies). Put your face plates up then you will need your modem plugged into your router, your router will need to plug into a switch (because you will probably need a lot more ports than a router will give you) then the switch will need to connect to your patch panel.
Once that is all connected and ready to go you will need to go around and test your ports. You may want an Ethernet tester for this to verify you have the correct pin out. I would recommend doing a search online for the pin out config.
For the security camera's I would recommend using WiFi capable cameras for outside and Ethernet connected ones for inside. Or go WiFi with all of them. Just make sure you have an electrician install a weatherproof/tamper-proof power outlet near where you want them and you are good.
Anyone know pricing on security camera install?
MAKAVELI
I want to have 4 security cameras installed in a store but am not sure how much to pay someone to do it does anyone know what a decent amount to pay is? Its a 4 camera system that is wired and a computer that needs to be installed and setup any prices will be helpful. Thanks,
Well thanks for the thorough answer but what I meant was how much is a decent amount to pay for the installation of a four camera wired system? I already have the cameras I just want them installed but dont want to low ball the person he is charging me $250 right now but i told him i was shopping around still i think hell do it for $200?
Answer
With camera and survelience systems, you get what you pay for. Generally, the more you pay, the better features you get, and the more reliability. I would expect to pay at least $3k for a basic system. Here are some pointers:
1. Unless you just want the cameras for show, don't go with an off the shelf system like you can get at Costco or Sam's Club.
2. Don't do business with any company that hasn't been selling/installing cameras for at least four years. Ask for references.
3. Don't buy a Windows based camera system. Get one that is optimized for Camera usage. Many camera systems these days are based on custom implementations of Linux - a far better solution than Windows.
4. Don't cheap out on camera's. Good cameras + good recorder = better results. A camera system won't do you any good if you can't identify the people/cars/etc that your trying to record.
5. Buy a system that can handle at least 4 camera's more than you need right now. It is easier and less expensive in the long run to grow a system by just adding camera's than it is to replace the recorder.
6. Don't pay for your system and installation all at once. Have your purchase and installation contract broken down into stages - something like 25% deposit with order, 25% on delivery, 25% on installation and 25% due within 30 days of commissioning. Otherwise you could run into a situation where the camera company closes it's doors, or runs off with your money. I've seen this happen more than once.
I spent four years with a company that sold camera's and recording equipment as a side line. We were rather expensive compared to some of our competitors, because our main focus was another product line. However, on more than one occasion, people who went with the lowest bid often ended up coming to us for help upgrading or replacing their systems because of their good experiences with our other equipment. I saw more than one customer have the camera guy do a partial installation, then take off with the rest of the money, leaving the customer with no camera system. I also saw several customers get disgusted with their Windows based systems and either replace them entirely, or just stop using them at all.
Addressing your clarification: in my mind, $250 for installing the cameras is not only reasonable, it's extremely cheap. Most installers I'm aware of charge an average of between $50 and $125 an hour (depending upon your area). Depending upon the layout of the cameras and construction details of your building, I would figure an hour or two per camera, plus an hour or two to set up the recorder. My old company would have charged a minimum of $500 for the install, our typical install fee was $1500. Remember that iinstalling the cameras is more than just running the wires and mounting the cameras. It is also making sure they're pointed in the right directions, focused well, etc. Good luck.
With camera and survelience systems, you get what you pay for. Generally, the more you pay, the better features you get, and the more reliability. I would expect to pay at least $3k for a basic system. Here are some pointers:
1. Unless you just want the cameras for show, don't go with an off the shelf system like you can get at Costco or Sam's Club.
2. Don't do business with any company that hasn't been selling/installing cameras for at least four years. Ask for references.
3. Don't buy a Windows based camera system. Get one that is optimized for Camera usage. Many camera systems these days are based on custom implementations of Linux - a far better solution than Windows.
4. Don't cheap out on camera's. Good cameras + good recorder = better results. A camera system won't do you any good if you can't identify the people/cars/etc that your trying to record.
5. Buy a system that can handle at least 4 camera's more than you need right now. It is easier and less expensive in the long run to grow a system by just adding camera's than it is to replace the recorder.
6. Don't pay for your system and installation all at once. Have your purchase and installation contract broken down into stages - something like 25% deposit with order, 25% on delivery, 25% on installation and 25% due within 30 days of commissioning. Otherwise you could run into a situation where the camera company closes it's doors, or runs off with your money. I've seen this happen more than once.
I spent four years with a company that sold camera's and recording equipment as a side line. We were rather expensive compared to some of our competitors, because our main focus was another product line. However, on more than one occasion, people who went with the lowest bid often ended up coming to us for help upgrading or replacing their systems because of their good experiences with our other equipment. I saw more than one customer have the camera guy do a partial installation, then take off with the rest of the money, leaving the customer with no camera system. I also saw several customers get disgusted with their Windows based systems and either replace them entirely, or just stop using them at all.
Addressing your clarification: in my mind, $250 for installing the cameras is not only reasonable, it's extremely cheap. Most installers I'm aware of charge an average of between $50 and $125 an hour (depending upon your area). Depending upon the layout of the cameras and construction details of your building, I would figure an hour or two per camera, plus an hour or two to set up the recorder. My old company would have charged a minimum of $500 for the install, our typical install fee was $1500. Remember that iinstalling the cameras is more than just running the wires and mounting the cameras. It is also making sure they're pointed in the right directions, focused well, etc. Good luck.
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