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06Si
I am having a brand new house built, in the next couple of weeks it will be at the point where I need to install my own ethernet and security cameras before drywall goes up as the builders do not do this themselves. If anyone has any tips of how to online it will be much appreciated. I want ethernet in every room and 4 cameras out doors.
Answer
First off, plan. Walk the layout carefully and a paper map that you can mark up may be helpful as well. You can make a photocopy of a floor plan or hand draw this, it doesn't need to be exact, but you need a really good idea of where you are putting things.
Before you do anything else plan where your router will go. This is the most important thing to plan for because once the dry wall is up you will not be able to change your mind on it. Make sure to plan for any kind of ISP you may choose to have in the future, so both cable and telephone will need to be wired into this room where the router will be. That way if you decide to change ISP's they can install the modem in that same room. Trust me, nothing is worse than having your Ethernet wiring job perfect only to find out that it is then useless because you can't put the modem in the room designed for the router.
Make sure when you layout where the cables will go that they will be protected. None should be exposed to extreme heat or cold and you especially want to make sure they will not be accessible to small animals that may get under the house or into the attic. Small critters love to chew cables, they will destroy your Ethernet very fast and all will be for naught.
Install your patch panel. All of your Ethernet cables will need to run to a patch panel if you want this to look clean. I do not recommend putting the panel built into the wall, instead plan to have it in a place where you can quickly remove it from the wall so you can re-punch any runs that need it in the future.
Run the cables. Run each cable then from the patch panel to their destination making sure to leave slack at both ends, usually between 6 to 9 inches of slack on each end is plenty to then work with it. Do not punch down anything yet. Make sure when running the cable that it is out of the way of where the drywall will be installed and that you do not kink or crimp anywhere, especially around corners. A rule of thumb is that the Ethernet cable should never bend more than if you were to wrap it around your hand. That is about the tightest corner you want to make it do safely.
Attach the Ethernet cable up and out of the way using a staple gun with special wiring staples (they are wider and rounded so they don't kink the cable but you still need to be cautious when putting them in, don't puncture the cable at all) or you can use some nails hammered in on each side of the cable and bent over to hold them in place. the second method is safer but more time consuming.
When planning and running the cables run at least 1 spare to each outlet. This will help you out later if you make a mistake or need to replace one cable. You may also want to run a fish line, no not fishing line, a fish line. It can really be just about any durable string you can use to pull a cable through the wall after the drywall is in place in case you need to replace one cable.
Make sure to mark each cable on both ends. Come up with a system that works for you, I usually just number them then mark those numbers on my map. Some people designate the room the cable goes to a letter and the outlet gets a number then the port on that outlet gets a number as well so those look like: A-3-1 (just an example). By marking them all on both ends you can trace each wire out when you are ready to punch them down and know which port goes where.
Once they are all run, you have slack, you are positive they are out of the way for the dry wall to go up, just wait for the house to be finished. When it is done punch down your cables at the patch panel, punch down your ports for each outlet (don't put ports on the spare cables just leave them in the wall just for emergencies). Put your face plates up then you will need your modem plugged into your router, your router will need to plug into a switch (because you will probably need a lot more ports than a router will give you) then the switch will need to connect to your patch panel.
Once that is all connected and ready to go you will need to go around and test your ports. You may want an Ethernet tester for this to verify you have the correct pin out. I would recommend doing a search online for the pin out config.
For the security camera's I would recommend using WiFi capable cameras for outside and Ethernet connected ones for inside. Or go WiFi with all of them. Just make sure you have an electrician install a weatherproof/tamper-proof power outlet near where you want them and you are good.
First off, plan. Walk the layout carefully and a paper map that you can mark up may be helpful as well. You can make a photocopy of a floor plan or hand draw this, it doesn't need to be exact, but you need a really good idea of where you are putting things.
Before you do anything else plan where your router will go. This is the most important thing to plan for because once the dry wall is up you will not be able to change your mind on it. Make sure to plan for any kind of ISP you may choose to have in the future, so both cable and telephone will need to be wired into this room where the router will be. That way if you decide to change ISP's they can install the modem in that same room. Trust me, nothing is worse than having your Ethernet wiring job perfect only to find out that it is then useless because you can't put the modem in the room designed for the router.
Make sure when you layout where the cables will go that they will be protected. None should be exposed to extreme heat or cold and you especially want to make sure they will not be accessible to small animals that may get under the house or into the attic. Small critters love to chew cables, they will destroy your Ethernet very fast and all will be for naught.
Install your patch panel. All of your Ethernet cables will need to run to a patch panel if you want this to look clean. I do not recommend putting the panel built into the wall, instead plan to have it in a place where you can quickly remove it from the wall so you can re-punch any runs that need it in the future.
Run the cables. Run each cable then from the patch panel to their destination making sure to leave slack at both ends, usually between 6 to 9 inches of slack on each end is plenty to then work with it. Do not punch down anything yet. Make sure when running the cable that it is out of the way of where the drywall will be installed and that you do not kink or crimp anywhere, especially around corners. A rule of thumb is that the Ethernet cable should never bend more than if you were to wrap it around your hand. That is about the tightest corner you want to make it do safely.
Attach the Ethernet cable up and out of the way using a staple gun with special wiring staples (they are wider and rounded so they don't kink the cable but you still need to be cautious when putting them in, don't puncture the cable at all) or you can use some nails hammered in on each side of the cable and bent over to hold them in place. the second method is safer but more time consuming.
When planning and running the cables run at least 1 spare to each outlet. This will help you out later if you make a mistake or need to replace one cable. You may also want to run a fish line, no not fishing line, a fish line. It can really be just about any durable string you can use to pull a cable through the wall after the drywall is in place in case you need to replace one cable.
Make sure to mark each cable on both ends. Come up with a system that works for you, I usually just number them then mark those numbers on my map. Some people designate the room the cable goes to a letter and the outlet gets a number then the port on that outlet gets a number as well so those look like: A-3-1 (just an example). By marking them all on both ends you can trace each wire out when you are ready to punch them down and know which port goes where.
Once they are all run, you have slack, you are positive they are out of the way for the dry wall to go up, just wait for the house to be finished. When it is done punch down your cables at the patch panel, punch down your ports for each outlet (don't put ports on the spare cables just leave them in the wall just for emergencies). Put your face plates up then you will need your modem plugged into your router, your router will need to plug into a switch (because you will probably need a lot more ports than a router will give you) then the switch will need to connect to your patch panel.
Once that is all connected and ready to go you will need to go around and test your ports. You may want an Ethernet tester for this to verify you have the correct pin out. I would recommend doing a search online for the pin out config.
For the security camera's I would recommend using WiFi capable cameras for outside and Ethernet connected ones for inside. Or go WiFi with all of them. Just make sure you have an electrician install a weatherproof/tamper-proof power outlet near where you want them and you are good.
What is the best home security camera?
Dragonfly
I am looking for a system of 3 cameras, that can record directly onto the internet. I would like to have something that is good in the dark and also has a good resolution.
Does anyone have any suggestions, because I have no idea where to start. Thanks so much!
Answer
Hello
CNB cameras are not high end and are made in china,
Spyville just sell products made in china and are also quite low quality.
Most IR cameras do not give good images in the dark specially cameras under $200. Many companies claim good night vision but there are only a handful of brands who give night vision over 30 feet out doors. normally if a cameras is rated 150 feet of IR it will give you ok images at 30 feet at night and good images at about 20 if rated for 60 feet you might get 15 indoors and will be useless outdoors.
2 Great IR outdoor cameras
http://ascendentdvr.com/ascentseries2/52⦠($95)
http://ascendentdvr.com/vistaseries2/vis⦠($255.00)
Economical DVR's
Two good economical DVRs I would recommend are Ascendent's AVP-4120 DVR or Pelco's DX-400. The AVP-4120 uses the latest H.264 codec to improve streaming and recording time, and will allow PCs and smart phones to remotely view and control your cameras. These are the DVRs I would recommend that are good quality and affordable from companies who stand behind there products.
Always buy DVR and security equipment from a good brand name manufacturer like Pleco, Bosch, Honeywell and Ascendent: http://www.ascendentgroup.com
Unfortunately many people buy very low end systems which have poor frame rate and bad image quality because they buy from Amazon, "spy stores" Lorex, Q-see, NCIX, new-egg, and other online retailers who sell cheap products for china there were never intended to be anything more then a nany cam and should never be used to provide security.
Not all DVRs are created equal, in fact there are many options that offer varying performance much like the automobile industry. In the world of DVRs you can find the equivalent of a $10,000 Kia and a $350,000 Ferrari and everything in between. Both have 4 wheels and windshield but that where the similarities end, itâs under the hood that counts. Just like any other consumer electronic in the end you get what you pay for.
The smaller the files size the more images are able to be sent, and the faster they can be processed improving both FPS and speed. File size is the heart of any DVR and goes far beyond just its streaming capabilities, as it also determines the recording storage time, how much you can back up at once, how fast it renders and searches video. The file size of a DVR impacts the performance of the DVR in just about every aspect from speed to longevity and is often the most important spec of any DVR.
If you are buying a DVR and streaming is a high priority I suggest you ask for a demo and connect to the DVR to make sure it is able to stream fast enough for your needs. Most DVRs say they have remote viewing but it is often too slow and laggy to be of any use especially if it is a standalone.
Just like any other consumer electronic in the end you get what you pay for. Most retailers and sellers make about a 40-80% profit margin, this is after costs like shipping and overhead. That means when you buy a product that costs $100.00 the manufacturer usually has only spent $30 to build it which simply means itâs not a good product and will probably have a working life of about 2 months. Cheap products are like disposable razors they are NOT designed to last for a long time and you will end up replacing them every 2 months.
DVRs need to be good quality as they run 24/7 (20X more than the average electronic device) and process anywhere from 30-480 frames per second which in a year is over 15 billion images, and a good DVR should last 3-5 years.
Again if you are going to buy no name products save money and get dummy cameras they are just as affective and you will be less disappointed.
Hope this Helps,
williammorales93@ymail.com
Hello
CNB cameras are not high end and are made in china,
Spyville just sell products made in china and are also quite low quality.
Most IR cameras do not give good images in the dark specially cameras under $200. Many companies claim good night vision but there are only a handful of brands who give night vision over 30 feet out doors. normally if a cameras is rated 150 feet of IR it will give you ok images at 30 feet at night and good images at about 20 if rated for 60 feet you might get 15 indoors and will be useless outdoors.
2 Great IR outdoor cameras
http://ascendentdvr.com/ascentseries2/52⦠($95)
http://ascendentdvr.com/vistaseries2/vis⦠($255.00)
Economical DVR's
Two good economical DVRs I would recommend are Ascendent's AVP-4120 DVR or Pelco's DX-400. The AVP-4120 uses the latest H.264 codec to improve streaming and recording time, and will allow PCs and smart phones to remotely view and control your cameras. These are the DVRs I would recommend that are good quality and affordable from companies who stand behind there products.
Always buy DVR and security equipment from a good brand name manufacturer like Pleco, Bosch, Honeywell and Ascendent: http://www.ascendentgroup.com
Unfortunately many people buy very low end systems which have poor frame rate and bad image quality because they buy from Amazon, "spy stores" Lorex, Q-see, NCIX, new-egg, and other online retailers who sell cheap products for china there were never intended to be anything more then a nany cam and should never be used to provide security.
Not all DVRs are created equal, in fact there are many options that offer varying performance much like the automobile industry. In the world of DVRs you can find the equivalent of a $10,000 Kia and a $350,000 Ferrari and everything in between. Both have 4 wheels and windshield but that where the similarities end, itâs under the hood that counts. Just like any other consumer electronic in the end you get what you pay for.
The smaller the files size the more images are able to be sent, and the faster they can be processed improving both FPS and speed. File size is the heart of any DVR and goes far beyond just its streaming capabilities, as it also determines the recording storage time, how much you can back up at once, how fast it renders and searches video. The file size of a DVR impacts the performance of the DVR in just about every aspect from speed to longevity and is often the most important spec of any DVR.
If you are buying a DVR and streaming is a high priority I suggest you ask for a demo and connect to the DVR to make sure it is able to stream fast enough for your needs. Most DVRs say they have remote viewing but it is often too slow and laggy to be of any use especially if it is a standalone.
Just like any other consumer electronic in the end you get what you pay for. Most retailers and sellers make about a 40-80% profit margin, this is after costs like shipping and overhead. That means when you buy a product that costs $100.00 the manufacturer usually has only spent $30 to build it which simply means itâs not a good product and will probably have a working life of about 2 months. Cheap products are like disposable razors they are NOT designed to last for a long time and you will end up replacing them every 2 months.
DVRs need to be good quality as they run 24/7 (20X more than the average electronic device) and process anywhere from 30-480 frames per second which in a year is over 15 billion images, and a good DVR should last 3-5 years.
Again if you are going to buy no name products save money and get dummy cameras they are just as affective and you will be less disappointed.
Hope this Helps,
williammorales93@ymail.com
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